Over at Cleanestline.com Gerry Lopez writes about his experience with a standing wave. It’s a nice and long text, that I will give a second look on the sofa, apparently coming from his book Surf is Where You Find It. That is a title after my taste. This should be every surfer’s motto, how else could the crowds be dispensed?

… Since it’s gone, I guess there’s no reason to keep the secret any longer. What we had was a pretty neat surf spot almost 200 miles from the ocean. For the last three years, it’s been double top secret. Even so, like everything else in the surfing world, the word got out. That’s why it got taken away. Too many people knew and were having too much fun.
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We got talking and discovered that he never had ridden a wave in the ocean. He had surfed a few other standing waves in the area, but had just heard about this one. His board was Oregon-made in a shop out in Lincoln City. He found it in a second hand store here in our desert town and it worked well for him.
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The Cleanest Line: The Demise of the Ditch

The legendary filmmaker being Bud Browne.

from Pacific Longboarder

The San Luis Obispo International Film Festival is delighted to present an historic and exciting night honoring the world’s first surf filmmaker, 95-year old Bud Browne. Now a local resident of the Central Coast, Bud will be honored here by many surfing greats, including surfers Gerry Lopez, Joel Tudor, Peter Cole, Linda Benson, Fred Van Dyke, Walter Hoffman, and surf cinematographer Jack McCoy. Buzzy Trent’s daughter, Anna Moore is helping to coordinate the event.

On Thursday, March 13, 2008, this group of legendary surfers from around the world, will take the stage at the grand Fremont Theatre in downtown San Luis Obispo to pay tribute to the man who inspired modern surf culture by creating the first commercial surf films ever. Surfing the 50’s will be the featured film, and the evening will also include a raffle, Q & A session and a post-screening Surf Party in the old Pier One building on Monterey St. (generously donated by Copeland Properties) with live music, surf films and the opportunity to meet the surf celebrities in attendance.

read more here